1987 Buick Grand National 4.1 V6 Custom Build

Description

I have a 1987 Buick Grand National located in Columbus Ohio. I purchased this vehicle about 8 years ago and have tinkered with it ever since. The vehicle has a clear title and the odometer currently shows 59,541 miles. Per the receipts the new engine build was completed at 58,800 miles. I've put about 2,500 miles on it in 8 years. It has a 4.1 block with a CNC bore/hone 0.30, resurfaced with a head stud conversion. Stock polished crank with a RJC Crank Girdle, Diamond forged pistons, Manley 1.775 intake valves, Roller rockers, milled heads, performance valve springs, Ductile roller cam kit, the list goes on. It has a HUGE front mount intercooler (you can see the piping in the pictures under the front bumper, CT43 6767 Turbo, 60lbs injectors, Methanol Injection that uses the overflow tank as a reservoir. It has a 200-amp alternator, Custom tubing, F.A.S.T. bank-to-bank Engine Management System, 4-inch intake, 3-inch downpipe, Hooker exhaust from the headers to the tailpipes. It destroyed the 200R4 transmission, it was rebuilt and it started slipping again so it was replaced with a pro built TH-400 (3 speed W/O overdrive), a PTC 3000 stall converter and a 4 inch drive shaft. I still have the 200R4 and original driveshaft. I purchased new door and trunk seals but was waiting for paint before installing them so they are all in the boxes. Front air dams are new in the boxes and have yet to be installed. When the adjustable boost gauge was on, I stayed between 16-20 psi. The engine builder calculated the HP north of 748 at the crank. The adjustable boost gauge was removed and it is now set at 16 psi, she seems to like it there. I have no dyno paperwork but the builder calculated a horsepower rating somewhere in the 700 range at 16 psi.

I’m not an engine expert by any means. I took it to Grand National expert and told him to make it go fast, $14,000 later this is what I got. It’s fast, how fast? I really have no idea, and I’ve never had it on the track, just played in the street a little. It has about 1000 miles on it since the engine build. I would not recommend this vehicle for a low performance driver, it will put you into a guardrail or cornfield. I’m sure I’m forgetting some things. The hard part is done it’s really close to complete, just needs to be buttoned up.

What I think it needs: I would say it needs a dual fan and radiator upgrade. It usually stays around 180-185 degrees unless you stay stopped in traffic on a hot day for a period of time. Maybe one with an oil cooler to keep the oil temps down a bit. The front mount intercooler restricts the airflow to the radiator so to rectify the climb in temps it really should be upgraded. The original intercooler was placed between the engine and the radiator so the radiator was exposed and stayed cooler. The front bumper fillers need replaced, they are original and have become fragile. They will break easily if you handle them. They are readily available online for around $200. The back is still good. The headliner is starting to fall, it will need fixed or replaced. The shifter is an aftermarket one set up for a 3 speed. It does not have overdrive so you wouldn’t want to be cruising around at 80 mph on long road trips or anything. I believe I have original shifter somewhere if you want to change it back to a 4 speed with the 200r4. The AC compressor and condenser weretaken off during the engine build and comes with the car if you want it. Heater core was bypassed as it started leaking, and a new heater core was installed but I have not purchased new hoses for the water pump hook up (simple fix). Emblems on the interior door handle need replaced and the headlights need to be aimed. Autocheck shows an odometer discrepancy, I don’t have a definitive answer as to why. From what I can tell, an Alabama title was issued on 09/27/2001 indicating 0 miles and it was later registered with the correct mileage. Again, I don’t have a definitive answer that is just what I found by doing a title and registration search. It is possible that the odometer has ben replaced prior to my purchase. In any case, there is less than 2000 miles and the engine and transmission. I encourage you to come and inspect it, drive it, send your mechanic to look it over, whatever you have to do. It has a killer engine and is lots of fun to drive. Like I said I’ve owed this baby for years and the only thing I've done is throw money at it. A large part of me is saying finish it, but at the same time, my priorities have changed. I’ve dumped a ton of money into it, anything and everything I have for the car goes with it. TE44 turbo, an extra quarter glass, extra steering column, injectors, original computer, ScanMaster, and a bunch of other random stuff.

It is not an original numbers matching show car. The engine was built to be a go fast daily driver. If you want race it, that’s entirely up to the new owner, slap some decent tires on it and I'm sure it will run low 11's if not faster. Feel free to ask questions, I will do my best to provide an honest answer and or paperwork for anything asked. I know I'm not going to get the money out of it that I put into it but please don’t insult me with lowball offers, I’d rather it sit than to give it away.

In the shipping section it states that there is a non refundable $500 deposit due at the end of the auction. I would like to amend that to reflect that it is still due at the end of the auction, however if you arrive or inspect said vehicle and are not satisfied with my description as listed above, I will only deduct the cost to relist the vehicle. I will refund the remaining balance back to you. I'm trying to show good faith, I know purchasing vehicles over the Internet can be a scary deal.

***THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO ANYONE WHO TAKES POSSESSION OF THE VEHICLE AND BLOWS UP, CRASHES, OR DOES ANYTHING RIDICULOUS THAT DECREASES THE OVERALL VALUE OF THE VEHICLE AND THEN REQUESTS A REFUND. I'M NOT PLAYING THAT GAME. I AM FAIR BUT I'M NOT STUPID. I AM WILLING TO ACCOMMODATE ANYONE WHO IS SERIOUS ABOUT THE PURCHASE.***