1949 GMC 150 ecorod shop truck EFI overdrive restomod

Description

ask questions before bidding, I have left some room to add pictures if needed.
Cliff notes: 1949 GMC 150. LU3 4.3 V6 and 4l60e automatic, S10 chassis, new everything, wipers, HVAC, tilt, cruise, full gauges. Old look, modern everything. Perfect for a shop runner, great truck for someone who wants the old farm truck look without the banging or rattling or tinkering with carbs when the weather changes. I am not a pro builder, just a hobbyist, a work-from-home contract engineer with lots of free time, and someone who loves making dissimilar stuff work together. I have a very specific vision for the completed trucks, and spend a lot of time on the "look", the "stance", and the "feel". I included a picture of some of the others I have done. This is not slammed together for a quick sale like so many others I see on ebay. I spend up on safety and suspension upgrades, all my trucks get new tires and new brakes and new lowered suspension, and I do all the maintenance so you can have years of trouble free miles before needing anything.
Please read the whole ad, I address most potential questions and I know its long, but I cant sum up this truck in 100 words. Be patient, read thoroughly.
Originally a grain truck with a flatbed, found in a kansas field with other trucks. It was going to scrap because it was a hard luck truck, the frame cut in half and the grain bed long gone. the odometer only showed 1300 miles and, according to the owner, it had been wrecked twice in that short time, the first was a fence post down the passenger door (repaired) and the next it had rolled down a hill into a tree, ruining the motor (cracked block) and the front clip. Maybe I shouldnt have, but I agreed to buy it with the other trucks he was selling me, five in total, and this is the last build from that purchase. Squirrels nesting in the cab for nearly 70 years rusted out some of the cab and I replaced both rear cab corners and both lower hinge pockets. It also needed replacement (used) front end sheetmetal. I used a truck bed trailer with a nice 1/2 ton bed and half running boards and combined them to the existing short running boards. I did not spent hundred of hours fixing dents, but the body is structurally sound again. this truck will never win best of show but it will haul a load of lumber and drive very nicely.
You can park it outside and leave it there, it starts in sub zero weather, has new electric wipers and defroster, and is ready to be a hit at all the cars and coffee or show and shines. Or just pick up some mulch, or just drive it to work.
The frame is a 2003 S10 longbed. The drivetrain, fuel system, electrical system, steering column, brake system, also came from the same 2003 S10. It has an EFI Vortec 4.3 LU3 MPFI engine, no spider poppets it has fuel injectors. The engine and trans are installed complete and unaltered with PCM and BCM. Has bussed electrical system and high pressure fuel system with plastic gas tank. Cruise control, daytime running lights, lights on bonger, 30 second dome lights. stock S10 HVAC installed and working, works from factory S10 controls in glovebox. 4L60E overdrive trans with 3.42 rear pinion. power steering and disc front brakes. WHen you need parts, any parts store will have them, there are no special components or mail order only parts used.
New parts installed: upper and lower control arms with balljoints and bushings, sway bar and end links/bushings, front calipers pads and rotors, brake lines, master cylinder, 2" drop springs, 2" Belltech drop spindles, KYB monotube shocks front and rear, 4" western chassis drop leafs, replacement 53" driveshaft, engine mounts, new radiator, new Mobsteel Detroit Steel Wheel 20x8 and 20x9 artillery wheels powdercoated red with 20" stainless trim rings, new 245/45 and 275/45 all season tires, reproduction 1949 stainless GMC hubcaps modified to fit the wheels. There are no spacers used, the wheels were custom ordered with the correct offsets. new lug nuts, new cap and rotor, temp sender. New 2 chamber headlights (for proper operation of DRLs) LED front turn signals and stainless 54-49 LED rear taillights, fuel filter, air filter, rubber backed carpet and heavy jute under carpet padding, recovered (vinyl) bench seat from 88-98 chevy truck, new port engineering wiper system, windshield and windshield rubber seal, door glass and door glass felt and rubber seals, door glass channels, door windlace, running board gap seals, stainless mirror, outside door handles, front fender hardware, rear fender hardware, running board hardware, new transmission cover, borgeson steering shaft and u joints. Mobil One full synthetic oil change, and all new fluids. I sanded and painted the frame black before installing the body. New CON2R GMC programmable gauges with LED backlighting, these are custom made to exactly fit the openings and be driven by the 2003 senders.
Original S10 steering column and brake pedal assembly mounted to new custom heavy duty under dash bracket, no firewall flex. S10 steel bed floor and wheel tubs installed, has original style bed wood and bed strips installed over it. very strong. Passlock still works! Passlock is the ultimate anti-theft system, I did a 65 swap with passlock and it was stolen from the buyer, he found it half a block away! I installed a 1946 front bumper on the rear using new custom brackets, I actually like the look of it better than the 47-53 rear bumpers.
Runs and drives perfectly. Starts on the first turn of the key, no carburetors here, EFI and The Vortec 4.3l V6 has almost as much hp and torque as a GEN IV TBI 350 (LU3 195hp 260tq, TBI 350 200hp 300tq), so it accelerates smartly and gets great gas mileage because the old body is so much lighter than the S10. It is effortless to drive in traffic, power steering is light and smooth, the automatic shifts perfectly, and the truck will idle all day. Your daughter can drive this. Your wife. Even grandma. It drives like a modern car, quiet, smooth, easy. At 75mph on the highway the truck is just loafing and wind noise is lower than you would ever expect for a 1949.
Be aware: There is still some rust on this truck, for example behind the decades old patches at the bottom rear of the front fenders, but none is structural and all has been treated. The glovebox is really shallow and has heater controls in it. The defrost hoses are hooked to the defrost vents and the heater vents route to the floor but there is no duct system made for the face vents yet, it blows inside the dash when that position is selected. The drivers door glass has a crack. If its really a sticking point for you, I will order and install a new one. All the seals are new and the truck is weather tight in most conditions, but it will leak in a pressure wash or heavy rain. The side vent works but the upper cowl vent is stuck shut. I have put silicone around it to keep water out. The AC is not charged, when I pulled the orifice tube it was full of aluminum shavings so the compressor is eating itself; a new compressor will need installed. Also, one of the underhood AC hoses has a kink in it, I have sourced a replacement set and it will be included. Before charging the system a thorough flush will need done and the adjustable orifice tube will need replaced, as well as the drier, but the system WILL work from the factory controls, everything is installed. The original S10 gauges are installed behind the dash, they are required to let the alternator charge and the serial connection to the PCM to operate. There are lots of dents and dings and other character marks, some left from that accident in 1949. I cant tell you what to do with your money, but it would cost a small fortune to bodywork and fix this truck. Everything was 6 different colors so I wire brushed most of the rust and original paint off, and did a careful application of a thin satin red including the firewall and under any new gaskets or panels, to inhibit further rusting. You can sand it back in places if you want the patina look, or you could just leave it outside and it will quicky get there. the hood and front fenders are from three different GMCs, so the fitment to each other is less than perfect, but works. I have an S10 ignition key and no 49 door key, the passenger side is the only side with an outside lock. There is no radio installed, the opening is closed off with a simple cover because of all the wiring and components you could see through the hole, but the S10 radio harness is there and I think I have the stock double din radio somewhere I could include.
If you wanted to bag it, the body is set up on the frame with welded steel mounts and energy suspension bushings to where a simple bag kit would lay the running boards out, needing only a small c notch and link system in the rear and cups/shock relocation for the front. If you want an LS motor, remember that this is a 2003 S10 so it already has the high pressure fuel system installed that is needed, it already has the desirable 0411 PCM, and it has a 4L60e that can be mated to a V8. so really all you need is the motor/accessories, exhaust, a simple adapter harness, and a PCM reflash. With a plan, you could put in an LS in a long weekend. The guages will work automatically.
Also be aware: This truck is being sold AS IS and WHERE IS. The drivetrain runs extremely well, but it could last a week or 10 years. I am not an expert in titling in your state but the truck will come with the following documents: 1. CLEAN Kansas 1949 GMC title, with VIN that matches the VIN in the door jamb, in my name, with odometer statement and selling price statement on reverse. 2. Signed title from individual for 2003 donor drivetrain, fuel system, and ancillary parts like BCM and PCM. This is the VIN that will show on the OBDII port scan. These are the documents required to register the truck in Kansas, it is your responsibility to ascertain the requirements to register in your state. I am not offering any warranty nor will I be responsible for any other inspections or costs/labor to meet/pass those inspections. if your state requires a parking brake I have the pedal and the cables you can install.
I have other receipts for most of the new parts listed above. Part totals on this truck were well over 11k, that is before the cost of the donors and before any labor! Just the wheels/powdercoating/tires/rings/caps and the special gauges total over 5k. I will include a troubleshooting guide including some assembly notes.
Offers: Feel free to offer the max you are willing to pay instead of asking what my bottom dollar is. We are guaranteed to stay friends that way! If you want a cheaper truck there are lots out there, but remember mine has a headliner, new door and glass seals, new suspension and shocks, and a hundred other details that the other guys dont do. Mine doesnt have a cheap steering column that will wobble and fall apart in a few months. Mine has nice wheels and tires, not the cheapest 18" five spoke chrome wheels available. Compare apples to apples, what it will take to finish or fix a cheaper truck. you could drive this one to the flea market tomorrow in comfort without ruining your hearing.
Payment: Cash or cashiers check in 7 days. a non refundable $500 deposit is due within 24 hours.
Shipping: Shipping is your responsibility entirely, I will help by giving my address (zip 67220 for quoting) and arranging to be here for pick up. If you are somewhere close, say within 1000 miles, I have access to a trailer and a tow vehicle, we might be able to work out the details.
I have done my best to describe this truck and its condition, by bidding I will assume you have read and understand the ad. If you are still unsure, please ask questions. I want very much for this truck to be enjoyed for years to come, I am under tremendous pressure from my wife to keep it because its red and she loves it, but I enjoy the building, solving the problems.
If you bid and win, I will bend heaven to make sure I meet my obligation to you, and yours to me.

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