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1992 Dodge Daytona IROC R/T Factory Pilot Car Shelby Lotus T3

  • Price: Ask a price!
  • Condition: Used
  • Make: Dodge
  • Model: Daytona
  • Type: Hatchback
  • Trim: IROC R/T
  • Year: 1992
  • Mileage: 102,555
  • VIN: 1b3xw64a5nn172166
  • Color: Red
  • Engine size: 2.2 16V T3
  • Number of cylinders: 4
  • Fuel: Gasoline
  • Transmission: Manual
  • Drive type: FWD
  • Interior color: Gray
  • Drive side: Left-hand drive
  • Safety options: Driver Airbag
  • Vehicle Title: Clear
  • Location: American Fork, Utah, United States


The time has finally come for me to sell my 1992 Dodge Daytona IROC R/T. In the short 2 year production period starting in 1992, Chrysler built and sold just over 430 of these rare R/T models with the powerful and highly desirable 2.2 liter 16V turbocharged motor. Commonly referredto as the "T3" motor, it was equippedwith a 16V twin-cam cylinder head, designed and built by Lotus, along with a T3 Garrett turbocharger and intercooler. To add to the rarity, this specific car was one of a few 'pre-vehicle production' factory pilot cars designated by an additional fender tag fixed under the hood. This car was likely used to test the factory assembly line, train technicians, or road test the new motor in the existingDaytona chassis. The carfax report I pulled when I purchased the car showed that it was originally sold at a Chrysler auction with about 1300 miles on the odometer. I believe I am the second registered owner.
The car spent the first 6 years of it's life in Chicago before I purchased it and brought it here to Utah in 2000. The car currently sits with 102,xxx miles on the odometer and is ready for a new owner who is hopefully as passionate about it as I have been for over half of my life.
The car left the factory finished in this shade of 'Indy Red'. While it shows beautifully from a distance, the roof, hatch, wing, and the passenger side B pillar need attention due to common clear coat peel. Both bumpers also have some paint imperfections. There is also a dent on the driver’s side fender due to some clown in the DMV parking lot. The headlights and fog light lenses were refinished last year and no longer show any yellowing or hazing. The Enkei wheels currently on the car will come with it, the factory ninja wheels and center caps will also be included if you would like them. All four tires on the car are brand new. Unfortunately the car left the factory without an undercoating, and the rough Chicago winters took it's toll on the car. There is a small rust patch in both body seams in front of the rear tires. The front edge of the hood also has some rust. The floor boards, frame rails, doors, hatch, fenders, engine bay, and everything else on the car is clean and rust free. Despite the flaws, the car still looks great and still gets a lot of attention whenever I take it out.
Everything in the interior is in great shape. The original seats and door panels are clean and free of rips or stains. The headliner is perfect, the rear cargo cover is included and functional. All windows have been tinted, but the tint is old and fading in places and could probably be replaced. All the gauges, dials, and mechanicalswork as they should. It currently has an Autometer boost gauge and Innovative Wideband Air/Fuel meter in the a-pillar gauge pod. At the bottom of the center stack is an Autometer EGT gauge and mechanicaloil pressure gauge as well to monitor the vitals. Also hidden in the center stack is a manual fan switch and a master switch to turn all the gauges off if you’d like to go incognito. The car has an aftermarket CD player (Sony I think) and 6 new Eclipse brand aftermarket speakers. It is also wired for a subwoofer and amp in the cargo area.
At about 97,000 miles the performance bug bit me and I decided to do a minor performance build. The goal was 350 hp while remaining reliable and street friendly. The stock bottom end was rebuilt with forged Venolia pistons, ARP rod and main studs and ARP head studs. Factorybalance shafts were removed. The cylinder head was rebuilt by Lone Wolf Performance with all new valve guides and a 3 angle valve job. The core plugs were welded up as well. Other new parts included in the build are listed below:
-Lone Wolfstage 1 cams
-15 new lifters (FWDP was low on stock when I purchased these, so one original lifter could still be updated)
-Cometic multi-layer head gasket
-NOS valve cover gaskets
-New Mopar high volume oil pump and I-shaft with ported oil pickup
-Ported exhaust manifold with EGT bung
-Turbonetics 50 trim T3/T4 hybrid turbo with stage 3 exhaust wheel
-ATP ultimate internal 3” swingvalve-ATP Wastegate Actuator-3” downpipe and full 3" exhaust with magnaflow cat and muffler
-Godspeed front mount intercooler
-Custom 2.5” IC piping with t-clamps and 4 layer silicone couplers-Turbo XS RFL bov
-Rebuilt small spline 568 trans (drilled for crank sensor) with Quaife LSD
-FWDP four puck ceramic clutch disc with new stock T3 pressure plate
-Polyurethane shifter bushings
-B&M short shifter
-Solid polyurethane motor mounts (3) and trans mount (1)
-FWDP grounding wire kit
-K&N air filter-LRE Underdrive Crank Pulley-Magnacore 8mm Wires
-Custom vacuum block and cleaned up factory vacuum line nightmare-Grainger valve manual boost controller-Aftermarket radiator overflow bottle-Magnetic oil pan drain plug as aprecaution
I’m sure I am missing a ton of stuff, but you get the idea. I have about 5000 miles on the car since I did the major rebuild. Motor was broken in using regular oil for the first 500 miles before being switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic. The plan was to make sure everythingwas sorted out and broken in before I upgraded the fuel system, increasedthe boost and started tuning. Obviously none of this ever happened due to life happening. The car currently has a grainger valve set to 11 psi (stock boost) and runs perfectly well this way. The only issue since the build is that the exhaust manifold has developed a small crack where the egt bung was welded in. I drove the car all summer last year and the crack has not gotten any worse, but I have purchased and will include a replacement exhaust manifold that has also been ported for the next owner should they want to replace it. Other items that have been replaced over the years are listed below:
-New Mopar starter with upgraded heatshield-New braided stainless steel oil and coolant lines for the turbo-All new engine gaskets and new gates timing belt-New Mopar serpentine belt-New Mopar front struts-All four rotors and brake pads have less than 10k miles-New front wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends-New rear hatch struts (no need to keep a broom stick in the trunk!)-New Mopar water pump-New Mopar 180* thermostat-New upper and lower radiator hoses-Recently flushed coolant system-Recent Mobil 1 full synthetic oil change
In additionto what is listed below, I have a number of other items that will be included with the car if the new owner would like them.
-Factory rear window louvers minus the mounting hardware-Used rear R/T bumper and plastic bumper cover-Used R/T ground fx (both sides)-Full set of factory service manuals-Factory grey leather front bucket seats (tear in drivers side)-Any other miscellaneous R/T parts I have collected over the years
I will include a giant folder of receiptsfor virtually all the parts listed above.

What the car needs:
-The AC was removed long ago and is not functional. All of the original A/C parts are included with the car other than the front condensor which was removed to allow more air flow to the Intercooler.
-The blinker switch has a mind of it's own and sometimes doesn't like to work.
-One of the serpentine pulleys occasionally squeakswhen the car hasn't been driven for a long period of time. New pulleys are $15, but the squeak goes away after driving the car so I haven't addressed it.
-The solid motor mounts in the car are probably a bit much if you plan on driving the car daily. You'll occasionally get an interior squeak or rattle, but some factory rubber mounts would be an easy swap if you don't plan on racing the car.
-The car needs a performance tune to optimize all the pieces. The turbo is large and capable of excellent power, but running stock boost levels means it's a but laggy right now. I would strongly suggest the new owner upgrades the factory (and original!) fuel pump and injectors, invests in a 3 bar calibration, and fine tunes the cam timing with some adjustable cam gears to get the most power out of this setup. These motors/transmissions are very stout in stock form, so all the additions should make for a reliable and power setup once tuned properly. I originally was shooting for a 12 second quarter mile which the car which it should easily be capably of once tuned and with the good driver, but as of yet the car has never been down the track.

Links below are for the project log and a video walk around of the car. You may have to copy and paste these into your browser.

I could write a novel about this car, but I believe the info above should give a potential buyer all the details they need.This is as open and honest as I can be about the car. Buying a car online can be a difficult, so I don't want the next owner to encounter any surprises or be disappointed. Please feel free to email, call, or text me with any additionalquestions you may have. A $500 deposit is due within 48 hours from the close of the auction, full payment needs to be made within 14 days. The car cannot be picked up until payed for in full. The new owner will be responsible to arrange transportation for the car, but I am willing to help in any way possible. I have a clean and clear title for the car in my name.
Tyler 8zero1-44zero-473zero