1974 DODGE DART SPORT / DUSTER BIG BLOCK 440 – DRAG / PRO STREET SOLID & NO RUST

Description

STRAIGHT CLEAN 30K MILE CAR WITH ALL OF ITS FACTORY ORIGINAL BODY PANELS

NO RUST

NO BONDO

COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLED & REPAINTED FACTORY B-5 BLUE

NICE FACTORY INTERIOR

FACTORY GLASS / DASH / DOOR PANELS / ETC

FACTORY VIN TAG / FENDER TAG

NOT CUT OR BUTCHERED

CHASSIS READY FOR STREET OR RACE

GREAT PRO STREET / BRACKET CAR / STOCKER

BUILT 440 / 727 / 8-3/4 (BACKBRACED – ALL AFTERMARKET INTERNALS)

CAL-TRAC REAR SUSPENSION

CLEAN / CLEAR TITLE IN MY NAME

EVERYTHING FRESH

A QUALITY CAR THAT IS APPRECIATING IN VALUE, AND CAN BE A STREET OR RACE CAR OR BOTH

HERE ARE LINKS TO (2) YOUTUBE VIDEOS OF THE CAR WITH ITS ENGINE RUNNING:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15M6rolfLRI

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=QqpKznX3qfM

This car is the nicest Mopar I have ever owned…..It started out as a 30K mile undercoated and always garaged granny car.It has no patch work and is wearing all of its original body panels.The interior has been re-done and the car re-painted the factory B-5 Blue.It was then turned into what was to be a bracket car, then changed to a “stocker”, then back to a bracket car.As it sits now everything is fresh and it has never really been raced.I have basically turned it into a street or race car, but haven’t really done much else with it.

Here’s what it has:

ENGINE:

10.3:1 compression 446cu in (440 + /030”) / factory steel crank & rods (bushed small end) / Howards Cams 0.600/0.585 lift - 285/291 duration solid roller cam (originally had a larger cam in it for race only – that cam is included in the sale) / Mopar Max-Wedge style adjustable rockers / Weiand team G intake / Quick Fuel Holley Dominator carb / ported & polished 516 heads with larger 2.14/1.81 valves & port work / Moroso 7 Qt oil pan / HV oil pump / windage tray / double roller timing chain / aftermarket springs, retainers, locks, pushrods / Meziere electric waterpump / TTI Nickel Chrome coated headers / aluminum radiator / Vertex Magneto / Taylor plug wires / Fluidamper Harmonic Balancer / aluminum pulley / Denso style mini alternator

ORIGINAL CAM: Howards Cams .645 lift / 318 duration solid roller cam

TRANSMISSION:

727 Torqueflite / full manual reverse valve body / Hurst Pistol Grip Shifter / aluminum deep pan / bolt-in sprag / locking dipstick / Transmission Specialties 8-inch convertor

The convertor was just rebuilt by TSI – had stall speed lowered to match new cam, and add mechanical diode for street use (was spragless)

The transmission was just completely gone through also with new drum / A&A reverse manual race style valve body / race style servos / all seals & gaskets / has race style clutches / etc.

REAR END:

8-3/4 with backbracing / Moser axles / 5.13:1 Richmond gears with a spool / Full Cal-Trac mono-leaf setup / Com. Eng. Shocks / Mopar pinion snubber / 489 C/S case / 5/8” wheel studs & spacers

CHASSIS:

Factory firewall / floorpans / trunk / wheelwells…..Noting cut….Could still be a stocker…..Still has factory VIN tag & Fender tag & clear IL title in my name – factory glass everywhere with roll-up windows / factory dash / factory door panels / factory backseat

Hurst Line lock

All braided fuel lines

Dual trunk mounted battery holders (currently just running one battery)

Mallory fuel pump & filter…….BG regulator

Full Autometer gauges & tach w/ shift light

Interior has new carpet / new front seat cover

6-point rollcage

Moroso cool can

Centerline wheels all four corners

Comp Eng. Sub-frame connectors

Front & rear bumpers powder coated Silver

Moroso battery disconnect switch

Factory manual steering with rebuilt front end

Factory drum brakes front & rear

Aluminum motorplates

Pan evac system

Doors / trunk / ignition switch all still work by factory keys

WORK I’VE DONE RECENTLY TO MAKE THE CAR STREETABLE AND RUN BETTER AT THE TRACK ($5,000++ SPENT, MOSTLY IN PARTS)

-Add larger transmission cooler (B&M SuperCooler), uses all braided stainless lines with AN fittings to tranny

-Large (16”) electric cooling fan / manually controlled

-Have an extra set of keys made

-Switch rear tires to P275-60R-15 Mickey Thompson ET Street radials (new)

-Add larger (15 gallon) aluminum fuel cell (all braided stainless lines – An fittings)

-Change throttle cable setup

-Add exhaust system (3” pipes with Flowmaster Super Series 44 mufflers) (all mandrel bends)

-Re-do Pan evacuation system to work with new exhaust

-Add swingout door bar on driver’s side of rollcage (NHRA legal)

-Add alternator setup (60A / Denso mini type) (can be manually controlled)

-Add air cleaner setup with K&N filter

-Add fire extinguisher

-Re-do switch panel (cosmetics)

-Wire car for headlights / running lights (front & rear) / turn signals (front & rear) / brake lights / door buzzer / emergency flashers / license plate light / gauge lights

-Get speedo working

-Add floormats

-Add 2nd fuel filter (at carburetor – has one before the pump also)

-Add Mopar “Tuff” wheel & proper spacer / adapter (have factory wheel – excellent shape)

-Wrap #2 header tube to protect engine bay paint from heat

-Go through front & rear brakes (precaution) – (new master cylinder (larger bore) / front wheel cylinders / rear self-adjusters / etc. / etc.) – everything was like new, but car had been stored for a while, so went through it all to be safe

-Had TSI 8” torque convertor rebuilt and stall speed lowered to match the new camshaft, also added a mechanical diode for street use (was spragless) – work done by TSI

-Had transmission completely gone through and checked out while convertor was being rebuilt….New drum / valve body / servos / seals / gaskets / etc – wasn’t right, but it is now

-Add speedo drive and get speedo working (all new seals on speedo drive)

-Have driveshaft checked and re-balanced + new U-joints

-Add Cal-Trac shims to set proper pinion angle for street use

-Adjust Cal-Tracs for baseline settings

-Go through carburetor and clean / check / re-jet / adjust

-New pinion seal

-New U-joint straps

-Make new throttle cable bracket & Regulator bracket

-New locking transmission dipstick & mount

-Go through Magneto and check / adjust

-Replace plug wires with solid core non RFI (Mag)

-Add Non-resistor plugs (Mag)

-New throttle cable

-Add paint protection film to lower quarter panels

-Replace idler arm

STILL NEEDS:

Car does need a new headliner – modern 1 piece ABS plastic replacements are readily available and reasonably priced

Car is geared at 5.13:1, if you want to race it, you’re good to go….For street use you will probably want to go with less gear….Your call….Center sections are readily available in a million configurations & price levels.You could also just do a gear change on the existing C/S to keep it cheap as possible

Car has some small hail type dents in the decklid (from Walnuts) - (see video / pic’s)…A paint-less dent removal person should be able to remove them

Car would look great with some type of factory striping if you would want to add that….But I like it the way it is personally

LOOK AT THE PICTURES, THEY PRETTY MUCH SAY IT ALL…….ASK ANY QUESTIONS YOU HAVE BEFORE BIDDING.

The car as it sits can be a great bracket car / street car.Everything is fresh and no expense was spared on the build of this car.The car wears all of its factory sheetmetal and is rust free and super solid and sharp.Nothing is cut, so the car could be a stocker with the right drivetrain.

You couldn’t begin to build this car for anywhere near my reserve.All of the hard work is done for you, all you have to do is enjoy.

THIS CAR IS LOCATED IN ILLINOIS

PAYMENT MUST BE MADE WITH CASH IN PERSON……..OR IN ADVANCE BY CASHIER’S CHECK OR BANK TO BANK TRANSFER IF THE CAR IS GOING TO BE SHIPPED TO YOU.

THE CAR CAN’T BE PICKED UP UNTIL MY BANK CLEARS YOUR FUNDS – NO EXCEPTIONS

THIS CAR IS SOLD AS-IS / WHERE-IS WITH NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND

On Dec-12-17 at 04:19:48 PST, seller added the following information:

THE 2ND VIDEO I POSTED DID NOT WORK......HERE IS A NEW LINK TO THAT VIDEO:

https://youtu.be/1dsXWSARblY