1987 Ford Mustang LX 408W stroker 10-second pump gas cruiser

Description

1987 Ford Mustang LX

Body details

·Rust free

·Wipers and gas door deleted and smoothed

·Engine bay and firewall smoothed

·HO Fibertrends 5” bolt-on cowl induction hood has been smoothed on the underside

·All weatherstrip and trim (moldings, door handles, etc.) is new

·New taillights, headlights, side marker lights

·Painted with Spies-Hecker materials, OEM supplier for Lamborghini.

Color is Verde Ithaca Mica, a Lamborghini tri-stage pearl green Lots of base, mid-coat, and clear

·Entire car – including jambs and engine bay – has been painted with the glass out

·Very clean and presentable, a definite head turner

·Paint was never wet-sanded after application, so this could look even better

There are some minor imperfections left from the body shop. I notice them because I know this car inside and out. No one has ever noticed them at a show or in casual conversation - and there is conversation everywhere it goes. I have basecoat and midcoat left over (third of a gallon can, maybe less), enough to spray some panels if needed.

·All turn signals, brake lights, flash-to-pass, high beams, hazards are fully functional

Front Suspension

·PA Racing tubular K-member and A-arms

·Flaming River manual steering rack

·Strange adjustable struts

·Strange coil-over kit (14-150 springs)

·Team Z Motorsports caster/camber plates

Rear Suspension

·Team Z Motorsports Strip Series upper control arms with relocation bracket

·Team Z Motorsports S/A lower control arms

·Team Z Motorsports Anti-Roll Bar

·Solid bushings

·Upper and lower torque boxes reinforced with bolt-in plates, seams welded

·Strange adjustable shocks

·Ford coil springs

·8.8 rear with jig-straightened and welded axle tubes

·Strange cover/girdle

·Strange 33-spline Pro Race axles with 5/8” studs

·Strange Pro Race spool

·Strange C-clip eliminators

·Ford Motorsports 4.10 gears

Brakes

·Stock replacement front disc, 5-lug rotors, new calipers

·Rear drums completely rebuilt with new wheel cylinders

·Manual conversion using mid-90’s Ford Ranger master cylinder

·Maximum Motorsports brake pedal with adjustable pushrod

·Wilwood proportioning valve

·Summit line lock

·All new brake lines routed into the fender and out of sight

Fuel System

·10-gallon aluminum cell mounted in spare tire well

·Aeromotive A1000 pump (2017)

·Aeromotive pre and post filters

·Aeromotive regulator (two included – one for EFI and one for carburetor) (2017)

·-08AN braided line to the regulator (2017)

·-08AN braided line returning to the cell (2017)

·Lines are wrapped/insulated near exhaust (2017)

·Fitech EFI-8 1200PA throttle body injection system (power adder model) (2017)

·Also includes Pro Systems carb – billet baseplate, billet metering blocks, jets and accessories)

Ignition System

·MSD Digital 6AL box

·MSD Pro Billet distributor (timing currently locked out)

·MSD Starter Saver start retard (pulls 20 degrees out for easier cranking)

·MSD 2-step wired into transbrake circuit

Exhaust System

·1 7/8” x 3” mild steel headers, ceramic coated (started as Accufab, but had to be modified)

·3” X-pipe

·Dynomax Race Bullet mufflers, dumped at rear axle

Engine

·1995 351W roller block

·Forged 4340 crank and H-beam rods – 4” stroke – 408 cubic inches

·Romac SFI-approved harmonic balancer

·Probe pistons, 11:1 compression

·ARP studs and hardware throughout

·Main girdle and windage tray

·AFR 205 Renegade heads, 58CC

·Scorpion 1.6 rockers

·Probe stud girdles

·Springs, titanium retainers setup by Ed Curtis of Flowtech Induction

·Hydraulic roller camshaft, custom grind from FTI - .640”

·Edelbrock Victor, Jr. Intake professionally ported by Mike Thoreaux, Mike’s Porting Service, RI

·Northern aluminum radiator with Spal dual 11” electric fans (Cruises in the Florida heat at 185 degrees)

·Wilson aluminum spacers, 1” and 2”

·Fitech EFI and carb listed under “Fuel System” (regulators for both are included)

·B&M StarTek starter

·Estimated less than 500 miles on the combination

Transmission

·TCI SFI flexplate

·Ultimate Converter Concepts 8” converter, spragless, mechanical diode (2017)

·Deep aluminum pan

·C4 built by Sean Wiley at Pro-Formance Tranmissions

·Transbrake, hardened input shaft, rollerized planetary, billet servo cover

·B&M Pro Stick shifter

·Energy Suspension poly mount

·Ford Motorsports aluminum driveshaft with loop

Interior

·Scott Rod Fab door panels, powder coated black

·Scott Rod Fab rear seat delete, powder coated black

·Braum Racing Elite-series reclining seats

I can also include a set of aluminum Kirkey seats if you like.

·Autometer gauges, Florida 5.0 gauge cluster

·AEM wideband

·Painless Wiring switch panel – line lock and transbrake are switched to prevent accidental engagement

·Wolfe Racecraft 10-point chromoly rollcage, professionally TIG welded, kicker bars tied to the subframe connectors (under the car)

·Window net

·5-point harnesses

·Grant steering wheel with removeable hub

·Manual windows and locks

·Turn signals, reverse lights, parking lights, brights, flash-to-pass, and hazard lights are functional.

·Car is wired to start with a switch on the Painless panel, but for security’s sake, still requires the key be in the ignition cylinder. One of the things I planned to do was rewire it again. I would prefer to remount the fuse panel to make it more accessible.

Wheels and Tires

·Billet Specialties Street-Lite wheels, black accents

·15” x 3.5” (1.75” backspacing), 15” x 10” (6.5” backspacing)

·Mickey Thompson Drag Radials 275/60

You can do the math and see how much I’ve invested in this car. It’s a one-of-a-kind LX. After a 20 mile drive to the track, it went 6.75@103.54 mph in the 1/8th mile. It ran out of fuel on the far end of the track, running a 10.62 but only 117.5 mph. That prompted the upgrades to the A1000 return-style fuel system. It has not been back to the track since. It should easily have gained 8+ mph.
I am currently running a Fitech EFI-8 1200 Power Adder system. I went that route instead of an MPFI setup because my intake is thoroughly worked over. I didn't want to sacrifice the money that was put into it. The Fitech is essentially an electronic carb. You can adjust all the same variables as a carb, without having to open the hood. It's pretty neat, but I haven't mastered it yet.
If that's not your thing, swap regulators, put the carb on it. Just pick up enough line to plumb one bowl from the regulator. I'll include all of the carb parts I have, too (jets, bleeds, etc.).

Here's some videos of it running.

https://youtu.be/-jE-r5Sfeow

Follow the profile name to a couple other videos.