1986 Ford Mustang 5.0 Supercharged

Description

You are bidding on my very quick, supercharged 1986 Mustang GT.The car is a two-owner car.I purchased in 2004 from the original owner who completed 90% of the existing modifications detailed below. The body of the car has 162,000 miles on it, the engine has 57,000 miles, and the rest of the drivetrain has less than 33,000 miles. After the installation of a '92 motor (w/forged pistons) and supercharger in 2001, the car has continued to receive upgrades such as a new Tremec built T-5 Z transmission (less than 10,000 miles on it), 24lb injectors and 75mm MAF, carpeting, new suspension pieces, and a quality paint job in the original factory color. The car is excellent, both mechanically and cosmetically, and I have receipts for almost everything that has ever been done to the car. In fact; the stack of receipts for just the upgrades is literally 2 inches high.

Driving dynamics: Clutch pedal pressure is light (thanks to a King Cobra clutch), and release is smooth and progressive. A combination of spherical bearings and Delron bushings instead of rubber bushings, an aluminum driveshaft, and polyurethane engine and transmission mounts are largely responsible for a tight feeling car. Also a major factor in the way the car feels, is the welded-in, heavy duty Kenny Brown subframe connectors, strut tower brace, and 'K' brace (engine cradle) that were installed in the car when it was only a few years old. This has allowed the unit body to remain tight and rigid, despite its age.

The weight of my car is only 3100 pounds (86's were the lightest fuel injected GTs ever) so with the blower and engine mods, this car is very quick. The engine runs perfectly, and burns no oil with 57,000 miles on the engine and 33,000 on the supercharger (rebuilt in 2018). The brakes are powerful and will pull the car down from triple digit speeds without fading or warping. The car handles extremely well, but it also tracks straight on the highway. The Eibach variable rate springs have enough compliance to handle moderately bad roads, and there is no bump steer. The car is lowered 1.5 inches front and rear however, so speed bumps must be taken carefully. Even with excellent tires, traction is a serious problem and rainy roads must be driven with care. The tires will spin at 60 mph in third gear if you’re careless in the rain. Rear gears are 3:27 so highway cruising is still economical. The car is a great weekend toy, but it could just as easily be a daily driver for commuting to work. It can get 25-mpg on the highway and I get 19-20 mpg in combined city and highway driving.

Engine and Drivetrain

The engine is from a 92 convertible wrecked at 22,400 miles, and then was installed it in August 2001 along with a new Powerdyne BD-11 supercharger. The supercharger was just serviced in 2018 with a new internal drive belt (Powerdyne supercharges are belt driven instead of gear driven, which makes them ultra-quiet).Bearings were inspected and are as tight as new, with zero side play and absolutely no noise. All emission controls are hooked up. The engine also features:

nMAF conversion, using A9L processor, conversion harness, and sensors.

nPro-M 75mm mass air flow meter, new, calibrated for 24lb injectors.

n24lb injectors.

n190 Lph fuel pump.

nPowerdyne BD-11 supercharger. (9lb pulley)

nBosch supercharger bypass valve.

n12:1 Fuel Management Unit.

nFMS stainless steel headers.

nBassani stainless steel offroad X-pipe exhaust

nWalker Dynomax cat-back exhaust.

nGriffen aluminum racing radiator.

nFlex-a-Lite electric fan.

nHigh output alternator (necessary with the fan).

nMSD 9mm plug wires.

nNew (2003), Tremec built T-5 'Z' class transmission w/2.95 1st gear).

nFMS cobra clutch.

nForte billet clutch quadrant, with under hood adjustment.

nPolyurethane transmission and motor mounts.

nFMS aluminum driveshaft.

nSuperior axles.

nRear axle housing straightened and axle tubes professionally welded to the housing.

nFMS 3.27 ring and pinion (well set-up, no noise at all).

nRebuilt rear end (all new bearings) and fresh traction-lok clutch disks (2003).

nEdelbrock high flow water pump

nMichelin Pilot Sport tires with 90% tread left

Suspension

nKenny Brown sub-frame connectors, welded front and rear, w/floor pan doublers.

nKenny Brown engine cradle 'K' brace.

nKenny Brown strut tower brace

nEibach Pro, progressive rate springs.

nMaximum Motorsports spherical bearing caster/camber plates.

nMaximum Motorsports spherical bearing lower rear control arms.

nFMS police rear upper control arms.

nFMS low friction front control arms (replaced in '02).

nKoni reds.

nNew (not rebuilt) TRW fast ratio (15:1) steering rack.

nGlobal West, Delron offset rack bushings.

Brakes

The front brakes are mounted on '92 Mustang spindles, with high-carbon rotors, cross-drilled and slotted. The calipers are Lincoln Mark VII calipers, with fresh carbon fiber pads, and are actuated by a Cobra 'R' master cylinder, and an SN '95 brake booster (2018). The rear brakes are SSB rear disk conversion. The stock proportioning valve is gutted, and a Baer adjustable proportioning valve is fitted under hood, on passenger side firewall (see pictures).

nFront - Cross-drilled and slotted rotors.

nCarbon Fiber brake pads, road race compound

nRear - Stainless Steel Brake Systems rear disks.

nFMS SN95 brake booster

nFMS Cobra 'R' master cylinder w/1 cylinder bore

nBaer Racing adjustable proportioning valve

nCustom brake lines (necessary for use of Cobra 'R' master cylinder.)

Body

After an errant soccer mom parking lot fender bender (front driver's side), the car was repaired and then completely repainted at Steve's Collision in Carnation, WA in October of '04. The car spent 9 weeks in Steve's shop while he worked on it in his spare time, removing all the glass and all but a couple of pieces of trim. The nose of the car was removed for sanding and filling of the wear marks on the polyurethane nose mask, and the drivers door and front fender were replaced with new pieces. The left side lower rear quarter panel had a rock dent fixed, and a new hatch was installed to replace the old one, which was starting to rust from the inside out. Steve then went over the entire car and fixed body imperfections and then re-painted it in the original silver and then applied a clear coat. He repainted the trim in the correct factory charcoal gray. Instead of the vinyl hood decal from the factory, Steve matched the color and finish of the decal with paint, and then using a stencil, painted the hood to exactly match the look of the decal. The cost of this bodywork was $5,300, and I have the receipts. Steve did an awesome job, and the car looks excellent. It's not a show quality paint job, but it is very good and it was done using good materials.As would be expected on a 14 yo paint job, there are a few nicks here and there.

Interior

The interior of the car is in excellent condition. The original seats have held up beautifully, with both seats showing some light wear on the bolsters. The rear seats look virtually new, and the carpeting was replaced in December '04. The dash, including original dash pad, is nearly perfect, and was upgraded with a FMS 140mph speedometer in 1992. The plastic panels in the rear hatch area have a few slight scratches in the plastic, too small and light to show up in pictures or without close-up observation. The stereo is a JVC head unit with single CD, Sony 10 disk CD changer, 6 x 9' tri-axial Blaupunkt rear speakers in the stock location, and Pioneer co-axial speakers in the stock location in the dash. The door seals were replaced in December 04. The original speedometer was removed at 52,923 miles, and replaced with a FMS 140mph version that currently reads 8,119 (actual is 108,119 as it rolled over at 100k). Add the mileage on the two speedometers (original 85mph speedo included) to get the mileage on the body.

I had a custom harness bar fabricated for the car (shown in photos) and have installed with 4-point Sparco harnesses.This certainly improves the feeling of safety when driving this very quick vehicle. Unfortunately with the harness bar installed, the rear seat is unusable. I also have the stock seat belts, and it takes about 30 mins to swap out the bar/harnesses for original belts.

Car has been garaged and/or covered most of it’s life (certainly over the last 14 years under my ownership) and is rust-free.It will come with a very nice weather resistant cover (photos).

Flaws

The car is in excellent condition, but keep in mind it is 32 years old and is not perfect. It does show some minimal wear and tear, with the most substantial flaws listed below:

nRear window defroster is intermittent.

nFuel gauge reads empty when tank is topped off, then reads correctly when about 3 gallons have been consumed.

nSpeedometer needle 'bounces' slightly at speeds under 35 mph.

nHeater coil needs to be replaced.It has been temporarily bypassed, so the car currently doesn’t have heat.

nAfter sitting for more than an hour, suspension will sometimes make very slight creaking noises for the first 15 seconds of movement. Caused by a combination of polyurethane, spherical bearings, and Delron bushings.

nTwo of the 17” Cobra R rims lost their center caps at some point not long after I installed them.It was very difficult to find the correct replacement caps, so I had two oversize caps machined to fit.There is a slight difference between these (passenger side) and the original ones (drivers side). To the untrained eye, you'd never notice.

nCarpet was new in 2004, but has faded some in the rear of the car

nSteering wheel leather is getting worn, and may need replacing if you are particular about this.

nPassenger door window regulator is acting up.I haven’t opened the door panel to investigate, but the window will roll up and down with some assistance.

nDriver’s door is missing the map pouch (see photos) but I will include the old one.It needs reupholstering.

nThis is a factory non-AC car (not fun to drive in Texas summers, but awesome in the spring and fall)

Some maintenance/operational items that will be useful for a new owner to know:

·Rear brake pads and calipers are OEM for an '89 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe.

·Front spindles and wheel bearings are ‘87-‘93 Mustang

·Front brake calipers and pads are ‘88-‘90 Lincoln Mark VII LSC.The calipers should have a 73mm diameter piston, and the pads must be the correct ones or the spring tabs won’t snap into the piston correctly.Auto parts stores frequently get this wrong.

·Just a reminder—the brake pads I’m using now take a little heat to work well.Drag the brakes for 1 or 2 seconds to put a little heat in them.Also, the hotter they get, the better they work.

·Look closely at the front rotors and you will see hundreds of little lines looking like cracks.They are only on the surface.I ground (not turned) these rotors once, and the cracks disappeared at a depth of .02.

·Brake booster is from an SN95 Mustang (’94-’98)

·There is an extra set of good cross-drilled rotors with the extra parts.Nothing wrong with them, and they’ve never been turned.

·Master cylinder is from a ’95 Mustang Cobra.

·Serpentine belt lengths are custom for this car.I put the packaging for both belts in the box of extra parts.See packaging for correct belt length.(The belts are almost new).

·You must use premium fuel (92 octane) to avoid detonation.

·Front and rear lug nuts are not interchangeable.The Superior axles I have in the rear have longer studs than stock, and the front lug nuts are a blind hole design without enough depth for the longer rear studs.

·The spark plugs a cooler heat range than stock, so make sure you order them by number, not engine type.

·The supercharger inlet tube can be removed without removing the strut tower brace.Just loosen the clamps on the bypass valve, slide back the rubber connectors at each end, and wiggle.

·The header bolts need re-torqueing about once a year.

·The door seals replaced (2004)

·In with the extra parts are brackets for air conditioning, and alternator mounting.

·The thermostat is standard 190 degree.Temperature gauge reads 200 when completely warmed up.

·Be careful on speed bumps and entering and exiting parking lots. The car is lower than it appears, and you can scrape the underside easily.

·The CD changer is disconnected, but will be included and can easily be reinstalled

·The electric fan is wired to run only when the ignition is on.So you don’t have to worry about the fan taking your hand off, as long as the ignition is turned off.

·There is a red knob mounted on the firewall beside the brake booster for adjusting clutch engagement.

·To clean the seats, use dish soap or Simple Green and a soft rag only!No brushes of any kind, as they will damage the velour.

·There is a 12V power cord above the passenger side visor.

·Two of the gauges in the instrument cluster are aftermarket mechanical gauges, instead of the almost worthless stock gauges.These tell you much more accurately your temp and oil pressure.

I've tried to depict the car as accurately as possible. Again, it's in phenomenal shape by any standards, but it is 32 years old so do not expect it to be perfect. It is a great daily driver, and very superior in almost every way to a stock 1986 GT.I’ve really enjoyed it, and given it plenty of TLC, but my interests have moved on and it deserves a new home.It is being sold as-is, and I highly recommend you inspecting it in person.If you cannot, I can recommend a local mechanic that will provide a full inspection for a small fee.Please do your homework.Good luck bidding!