1982 PORSCE 911 HOT ROD MIAMI BLUE 3.6 360HP 300TQ. NEW TRANNY NEW SUSPENSION

Description

This is one scary lightweight (2195lbs) HOT Rod 911. I would dare to say one of the nicest on the planet! This started life as a clean 1982 911SC in Grand Prix white. I have a clean title in hand. I have built 5 of these now but I went way overboard on this car. I have so many modifications and dollars into this car it will take me a long time to list so bear with me. Currently the fresh built 3.6, tranny and suspension has just over 500 miles on them. Hence we reset the odometer to 0, the chassis had 105K on it when we began transforming the car.The paint and body has maybe 5K miles and no track time. I have all receipts for parts and labor and its allot of $$$! The original cost of the car before the parts and labor/work was $38K. This is a ROW euro car and the VIN is WP0ZZZ91ZCS101235
Paint and body
Stripped to bare metal on the outside of the car and engine bay, all glass removed and replaced with all new OEM Porsche rubber (everything). Over $1000 just in rubber.
I did not media blast and carousel the car because originally I was going to stick with the Grand Prix white color. My buddy talked me into a wild color at the last moment.
The paint is Glasurit M5C other wise known as Miami blue from the new 991 cars. Trust me when I tell you it looks better on the older cars, especially the wide body. Pictures do not show the true color of this car!
Anyway, back to the mods on paint and body. The sunroof was deleted and we used the factory sunroof panel as the filler panel. The radio antenna was shaved.
An air vent passage was welded into the front of the car for the oil cooler to run efficiently. The air comes through the front bumper and through the Setrab oil cooler and out the bottom of the car. Its a very nice modification and the car rarely reaches temps over 180 degrees.
We also welded in a heavy duty rear roll cage and it was painted to match the Miami blue paint theme.
Next was the wide body fenders. These were previously on the car when I purchased it, however they were done wrong and were lap welded on the car. This causes a seem where moisture builds up and it will eventually rust through the paint. So we cut off the rear fender flares and but welded them back on which is the correct way to do it. Seem sealer was sprayed on the inner fender wells to add protection. The front fenders are a factory set of rare early OEM Turbo fenders and they were PERFECT! Nothing needed to be done there minus shaving the fender mounted euro turn signals and filling the area with metal. There is no rust on this car at all. There was a small bit around the corners of the windshield which is normal but we took care of that with the grind wheel.
Now to the body parts. Being that we wanted the car to be as light as possible we used fiberglass parts where we could. Most parts were from Getty if I remember right, I do have the receipts. So the hood is F-glass, the front and rear bumpers are F-glass, the ducktail is F-glass (the ducktail received a new aftermarket satin black aluminum engine grill), the tail light housings are F-glass, the factory non power 993 aero mirrors are plastic or F-glass, not positive.
We used new OEM Porsche/Bosch amber turn signals in the front bumper along with the euro amber rear tail light lenses. The headlamps are Xenon powered units from Flat 6 illumination with factory fluted lenses. They provide allot better illumination over the factory weak 1980s factory units.
Other small stuff includes, new OEM gas cap (red), Rennline tow hooks through front and rear bumper (welded to chassis), brand new OEM "Porsche" script reflector on the back of the car ($650).
Last but not least the paint was applied over primer in beautiful Miami Blue. This was done by Jason of Heritage Motor Car restoration in Parrish Florida. He is well known in the 356 world and routinely does 3-5 year restoration on award winning 356 cars. Several of his cars have been featured in Excellence magazine and other publications. He is a 3rd generation Porsche restoration specialist.
INTERIOR
The interior was completely gutted and ripped out for a fresh start. The seats are Corbeau medium size. I'm 6'1 and 225lbs and they fit just fine. They are fixed in the car and do not move. We sent the center cushions/inserts to Patrick Motorsports and they applied the classic black and white hound's-tooth pattern and it literally makes the car pop. I get more compliments on those seats. I also added 5 point Corbeau harnesses to secure me and the passengers in the seats. These are strapped to the welded in roll cage cross bar. The car also has a hard wired in Valentine 1 radar unit that is mounted right above the rear view mirror. Its saved my butt a few times.
The carpet is the lightweight plush in black from APPBIZ. We also did the lightweight RS door panels in black vinyl with a red leather pull strap. We also added a black vinyl headliner that is beautifully installed and flawless. Then I went crazy with Rennline products. I have Rennline silver aluminum door lock knobs, Rennline silver aluminum hand break handle, Rennline silver aluminum drilled floor panels both driver and passengers side. I have the Rennline aluminum silver transmission shift joint cover, also drilled. I have the Rennline break away steering wheel mechanism in black attached to a MOMO Prototipo steering wheel with white stitching. I also did the nylon steering column support bushing for good measure. I added a roof mounted chromed 356 style rear view mirror (no more mirror stuck on the windshield). Speaking of windshields, I added a brand new windshield and gasket. The windshield is the only glass panel on the car that is not OEM Porsche SEKURIT. All the other glass is stamped SEKURIT with codes.
Ok back to the interior. I have a WEVO shift kit with the aluminum flat to shift knob, I have the WEVO precision shift joint just behind the seat to take the slop away from the shifting in these old cars. I took that one step further and installed the WEVO semi solid (blue pillow) engine and tranny mounts. I also have a center mounted chromed HALON fire extinguisher on a Brey Krauss mount that integrates with the ER break. So in case of an accident and being hurt, you can easily reach the extinguisher with very little movement.
Now what's not in the interior! No radio and it has a very nice delete panel. No AC or AC controls, also removed and filled with a delete panel. As I mentioned before, there is no sunroof. The only amenities are power windows and they work perfect! The car does still have its original ashtray (I keep spare coins/few emergency bucks for gas in it) and it has its original glove box (I keep important papers in it).
Last but not least the new gauges! I sent all 5 gauges out to Hollywood Speedometer to my man Ralph the WIZARD! He went all through each gauge to the tune of $3K. My engine builder wanted an actual temp gauge installed with actual numbers and not those silly bars/lines from factory. I have yet to get the car over 180 degrees and that's in summertime Florida mid 90s heat with me hammering on the car pretty good. He also did a 10K tach and we had the face painted Miami Blue. We also did the Heuer face plate on the clock. The speedometer was upgraded to a 220MPH top speed and the odometer was reset to zero. Ralph also took a picture of the odometer with the original reading when he received it and it comes with a certified piece of paper stating the original mileage before the reset along with the picture he took. Then all the needles were repainted bright orange, the gauges got brand new bezels and all the glass was cleaned to perfection with no scratches. But wait there's more. Everything was recalibrated and LED strips were added all the way around each gauge to make them nice and bright and easy to read at night. Please see the above image of the Miami blue tach, its amazing and came out really nice! Thanks Ralph!
PS the dash board is crack free and PERFECT!
WHEELS/TIRES AND BRAKES
The wheels are made by Fikse wheels and are a very lightweight 3 pc Fuch look wheel in Satin black with no center caps. They do use the OEM Fuch center caps but I wanted to go for the vintage look and left them off. The wheels are the Fikse ZF wheels and these are the same wheels used on the $500K Sing cars. The specs are 17x9 fronts and 17x11 rears and I run a 5MM lightweight spacers on both front and rears to further push them out in the fender well. The tires are Continental Extreme in sizes 245/40/17 fronts and BIG FAT 285/40/17 rears. I added the "Continental" tire stickers because I thought it looked more "race car-ish". I know they are a love or hate item and I love them! All you need to do if you don't like them is simply buy new tires. I get a lot of compliments and onlookers at those tires from both young and old. The tires have about 80% tread remaining.
The brake calipers were rebuilt with all new pistons and seals and the calipers themselves were powder coated red with black "Porsche" script stenciled on them. I also added Pagid racing orange pads, racing brake fluid and steel braided brake lines. The car also received new Zimmerman cross drilled rotors. Being that the car weighs 2195lbs, the factory SC brakes with the upgrades are more then adequate. Big brake kits on lightweight cars are OVERKILL!
SUSPENSION
Wow where do I start???? I worked with the elusive but knowledgeable Clint from Rebel Racing Products to build a complete race ready full suspension system for this car. So lets run down the list. I know I spent around $5500 on just parts alone. Here we go.
FRONT SUSPENSIOND-Zug 935 style front aluminum strut X brace, OEM Porsche front ball joints, OEM front wheel bearing kit, supplied front Boge Spindles/strut assembly for raised spindles (32MM) also gusseted and painted assembly, added brake line supports, welded on lower bump steer support (double sheer) configuration for full on racing,RSR adjustable bump steer kit with dust boot, front Bilstein sport shock strut housing, Rebel racing front bushing set w/spherical mounts, front sealed Rennline Monoball kit, hollow front Tarrett adjustable sway bar kit (through body), sway bar adaptor kit, sway bar reinforcement kit, Sander front hollow torsion bars (22MM). Fresh powder coated matte black front A arms.
REAR SUSPENSIONOEM rear wheel bearing set, RSR rear adjustable spring plate kit, Rebel Racing rear bushing set, Bilstein rear yellow sport shocks, Tarrett adjustable rear sway bar kit, WEVO rear sway bar mounts, Sander rear hollow torsion bar (30MM), RSR rear sealed moonball set, freshly powder coated silver rear banana trailing arms.
Suspension was recently installed, corner balanced and aligned! The car tracks very straight and grips like nobodies business.
THE TRANNY
The tranny is a 915 5 speed that has been gone through thoroughly. It received anything that needed replacement.The case was plugged and glass beaded to look new. It received an all new gasket set,1-4 sliders,1-5 synchro's, new studs for the case,3-4 spider hub, new pinion/main shaft lock nuts, new set up shims, 928 ring gear bolts (for the Guard LSD) and last but not least a Guard Transmission limited slip differential 40/60 (the LSD alone was $2150). Guard Transmissions LSD products are one of, if not the best LSD in the racing industry. The tranny bell housing and gear housing were both sent to Roger at California Motor Sports (CMS) to be machined/sleeved and have the new OEM bearings pressed in place. We used OEM Porsche bearings throughout the transmission. Those were not cheep. We used the WEVO internal bearing retainer as well. We also used the WEVO side plate for added strength along with the larger differential carrier bearing. Both axels were rebuilt using all new parts, new rubber seals and clamps and the axels were then painted gloss black. Then we filled the tranny with Swepco 201 gear lube.
FINALLY THE HEART OF THE BEAST!
THE ENGINE!
This is a bespoke motor built by a local central Florida Porsche engine LEGEND! That's right, I said it. MIKE BRUNS. Mike is a race car driver himself and has worked on every engine you could imagine. From classic V12 Ferraris, NASCAR engines, aeronautical engine, race boat engines and everything in between. He worked for JB Racing here in Florida for years before doing his own thing on the side if you will. Every time I mentioned getting a bad ass motor built, all fingers pointed in his direction. He is a master at air cooled hot rod engines. I know everybody say's that about their engine guys, but this is the TRUTH. Just google his name and see what you find. He is an active stand up member on the Porsche forums and a go to guy with questions regarding these cars!
So Mike tore into my engine and to both our surprise, my engine (3.3 EFI) was healthy and had allot of good parts that could be reused or resold. My only request was I wanted a reliable motor over the 300HP mark. So he took a few days to think about an approach and came up with some ideas. He said we could simply put my motor back together and add some go fast parts or we could gut my motor and sell off the good parts in order to begin to finance and build from the crank up a new HOT ROD engine with well over 300HP! Well I went for the second option and we got busy buying and selling parts. I sold almost everything from my engine within a few weeks via Pelican Parts classifieds section and had some money to shop with.
The plan was to build a 3.6 in the SC case using a 996/997 GT3 crank, Rothsport billet crank shaft pulley to adapt to GT3 crank, custom Pauter rods/ARP rod bolts, Carillo pistons, Elgin cams, GT3 oil pump, and head work to the stock SC heads by Bill at X-Treme cylinder heads. Bill did the twin plugging, porting and polishing.
From Mike Bruns regarding what has been done to the heads:

Larger ports with proper shape and larger valves along with a precision valve angle and seat angles to help flow in and out.Working together all this improves the ability to make power.
With CNC porting everything is exactly the same where before being done by hand was very time consuming and close but not perfect, even the valve job is done with CNC machines

You also have twin plug using 12mm threads to reduce the chamber volume increase (which effects compression ratio) look at the picture of the original plug hole vs the new hole, we also reduced the valve stem size from 9mm to 8mm to reduce weight and increase air flow, the injector notch was welded up before the port work too.
We used the JB racing twin plug disty and Moroso 8MM spark plug wires. All controlled by twin MSD 6AL ignition controllers along with 2 MSD blaster coils. The car has a IMI performance products high torque starter. The car is running a fuel labs fuel filter. For induction we went with brand new 50MM PMO carbs. In the process of the build, the engine case and tranny had all plugs and squirters removed and blasted with a fine glass bead to perfection. All new squirters were used along with a few other oiling mods. They look brand new! All valve covers were powder coated along with the fan/fan housing and timing chain covers. Just to make thing pretty we used a carbon fiber engine shroud and fuse panel cover. All lines are braided with AN fittings.The engine is held in tight with a stainless Rennline engine carrier and those WEVO engine/tranny mounts mentioned above. I also added a shiny new OEM oil cap and breather hose with a K&N filter for good measure.The car has stainless S Cargo replica headers hooked up to a stainless Dynomax muffler. We did a HP comparison between the Dynomax muffler and a GT3 cup muffler on the engine dyno and the Dynomax only lost about 10HP when compared to the GT3 cup muffler. So we went with the Dynomax due to cost. It sounds amazing! The car ended up making 374.2HP at 7200RPMs and 297.1TQ. at 5900 RPMs. on the engine dyno at JB Racing.
To keep the engine running cool we used the Elephant Racing finned oil lines that connect to the front center bumper mounted SETRAB oil cooler. I have yet to see it crack 180 degrees. We run Joe Gibbs Racing "air cooled" oil in the engine.
I have hundreds of detailed pictures of the complete build on Pelican Parts if your interested. Go google "My new build, the last of a long but very FUN journey!!!" and it will pop right up and you can see the entire build from beginning to end. Also go to YouTube and search "Miami blue 911SC".
Here is the link to the build thread!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/895325-my-new-build-last-long-but-very-fun-journey.html
The car pulls like a freight train and stops on a dime. The tranny is brand new and shifts as new. The motor is cold blooded and needs to warm for about 15 minutes before she's happy. This is not a car for the faint of heart or an armature driver. This car will KILL you if you do not respect it. You can also expect to be stopped everytime you put gas in the car or take it for a cruise, it is a true SHOWSTOPPER!
My only gripe on the car is that I couldn't get the front trunk painted Miami blue, so its still GP white in the trunk only. A $125 carpet kit will hide if wanted. I never open the boot so it doesn't bother me to much. The battery in the front of the car is a lightweight 9lb.Braille battery. I have a trickle charger that will come with the car as well.
PAYMENT FOR THE BUYER
I expect to be paid within one week for the car via wire. I will assist with transportation if needed. The car is located in the Tampa Bay area, feel free to come and see it. Any questions, just ask. The car could easily be driven cross country with no worries!