Toyota Land Cruiser Diesel- LEFT HAND DRIVE

Description

Up for sale is my 1987, left hand drive HJ60 Turbo Diesel, with the 5 speed H55F transmissionthat has a fully rebuilt engine and sports a Toyota CT26 turbocharger, with max boost set at 10psi. The truck has had an extensive amount of work done to it, and all of it is documented online. I can provide a link to my build thread, should you want to see it.

History of the truck:

I purchased this vehicle sight unseen from a fellow in NM, flew in and drove it home without any troubles. The truck was in rough shape mechanically, and it required lots and lots of work to make it safe. The truck has been imported from Canada, and prior to that, it was a euro spec truck that started its life in Germany. Running the VIN # on Toyotadiy.com proves that.

The good:

Upon getting the truck home I started to go through it and figuring what needed doing. I have done everything, from full brakes overhaul, which includes new master and cylinders in the back, to a full engine rebuild and turbocharging. See list below for the fixes that took place in the last two years or less than 10k miles.

·Brand new Toyota air, oil and diesel filters (these are regular maintenance items, I always use Toyota parts)

·Brand new front brakes

·Brand new Toyota rear brakes with Toyota cylinders and all new hardware.

·Brand new Master Cylinder

·Fixed wiring (will be described below)

·Brand new Toyota clutch kit w/ HD disk and Toyota throw out bearing ($100 part on its own)

·Billsteins HD all four corners

·Sway bar links in front

·Brand new Bosch Priming pump

·Brand new Injection pump diaphragm in the governor(torn leather in old one causes issues with idling and heavy black smoke)

·Brand new Denso injection nozzles and rebuilt injectors (have receipts for that)

·Brand new, extended oil pressure relief valve (Terrain Tamer version)

·Differential input seals

·FULL ENGINE REBUILD

·Installed mechanical oil pressure gauge, EGT gauge and Boost gauge

·Standalone wiring for the above, which includes a comprehensive but simple wiring diagram

·Stereo system (12v) runs off of a step down transformer

·New dash cap

Regarding wiring repair mentioned above, I wanted to say that a full dash tear down was performed and all of the custom wiring was removed. Everything was reverted back to original and a new, simpler, standalone wiring system was installed for the 12v accessories. These are the gauges and the stereo. The A/C works great but it does have a leak somewhere. I have replaced all the seals that I could reach easily, however there are others that may need replacing as well. It requires charging every summer but lasts through the season. Obviously, the system should be evacuated, checked for leaks, repaired and recharged.

The 4 wheel drive system works flawlessly as well. T case and tranny had their oil changed as well. All prop shafts have been greased and maintained as per manual.

FULL DISCLOSURE:

Air conditioning compressor works off a manual switch. By that I mean the driver has to manually cycle the compressor as the air con is in use. I thought this was annoying at the time but I got used to it and never made time to fix the problem. When I purchased the truck I told the seller that I wanted the air con to function properly, so he hired some bone head mechanic to fix it and they did a hack job. Instead of diagnosing the system they ran a wire to the compressor to allow it to engage, and therefore the system to be charged and they called it a day. The reason for the compressor not working prior to their hack job was that the wiring harness was tempered with, and the A/C switch was disabled. I have since fixed all that and everything is reverted back to original. The only thing needed is to rerun a wire from the compressor to its corresponding pin in the wiring harness at the ac amplifier. Pretty simple fix really but keep in mind, the system should really be resealed and evacuated, then recharged for years of trouble free service.

The truck has 4 matching Michelin A/T tires, one of which got ruined. It developed a huge bubble and it is still in place as a spare. The spare I had sports a smaller Bridgestone tire and it’s on the front passenger side. This is not a problem as long as you don’t use the 4 wheel drive. Do not attempt to use the 4 wheel drive until you have 4 matching tires installed. You can test the 4 wheel drive system for a short stint on some gravel or grass without a problem. I was going to purchase a set of 5 brand new tires prior to the sale but I am leaving that up to you. I am reducing my auction starting price by $1000.

The truck will need a full exhaust, unless you are OK with cool turbo whistles and diesel engine noises. I suggest an indie shop weld up a 2.5” straight pipe right out the back.

The bad:

First off I want to say that the only mechanical issue that the truck has that I know of, would be left hand side rear wheel bearing. I have the rear bearings already; they just need to be installed. Easy job as well, for those with minimal mechanical prowess. Now, the truck has rust. That is the only bad that I can list here! It looks as though the truck has been repainted at some point. They did a poor job of hiding the rust. The rear quarters have rust in the usual places. I am going to include a video with a full description of the rust areas. The gutters need to be resealed, as the original seal is dried up. There are some dents in places and the frame has rust in the rear, starting from the front perches of the rear springs. I will let you be the judge of that. The inner C channels in the rear of the frame have the typical rust and de-lamination. The lift gate has a hole at the base of the window, there is one emblem on the rear quarter that has fallen off, PO tried to glue it on with some silicone. Poor job if you ask me. I wanted to mention that I also have a 1986 Toyota truck that I don’t care much about. It showed a lot of rust and scale on the chassis. I took a grinder with a flapper disk to the frame and it cleaned up very nice, revealing clean healthy metal underneath. I then used chassis saver and coated the frame and it now looks like it is going to last me a good while. I had planned the same for the Land cruiser. Just an FYI.

Extras:

I have turbo charged the truck myself. The mighty 2H seemed a little under-powered on the inclines. I have done my research and went ahead and purchased a used turbo form a Toyota Supra. I then got a brand new CHRA from Mellet and put the turbo back together. I wanted this to be a cheap but useful upgrade, so I did everything myself rather than purchasing a kit. I flipped the exhaust manifold upside down and I made my own adapters, including down pipe elbow and such. I used a piece of flexible exhaust to extend the down-pipe from the turbo elbow and I left it at that. It is 2.5” diameter pipe. I tapped at the oil pressure sender for oil feed and into the rocker cover for the drain. All in all the system works brilliantly. I have been driving it with the turbo since September of last year. The exhaust manifold has been tapped for the EGT probe pre-turbo (which is how it should be done) and under heavy load; I can barely reach about 1010 degrees F. The truck runs great and I have absolutely no overheating problems even on the hottest days, with the Air Con running. Again, mechanically, this truck is pretty good!

The truck has the very desirable front and rear Kaymar bumpers. These items are worth more than 3k on their own. I have added a safari snorkel with a pre-cleaner, which does a good job of keeping dirt out but I would replace it with a typ. snorkel head for this application, as it lets water in during rain. It’s a stupid chi-com item and it does not fit well on the snorkel. It does not have the necessary water channeling to allow water to seep out. I unfortunately lost the original snorkel head so you would have to purchase your own.

The interior of the truck is very clean but the front seats could use a little attention. The rear bench seat has the seam apart (about 8” long) between fabric and vinyl right at the pull strap. It’s hidden really but it is an easy fix. The carpet is relatively new and there is no discoloration. It’s good, thick loop pile carpet that seems really durable. I don’t know of its provenience. The dash has a cap but it’s not glued on. Stereo works great and it’s connected to speakers directly, I have removed all of the amps and junk to simplify things and make everything less prone to failures.

Other extras:

Truck comes with a heap of parts. I have a lot of spares including electrical relays, wiper motors, a dash support, a bunch of switches, spare sealed headlights, a lot of Toyota bolts that can be cleaned and re-plated, door strikers, trim pieces, a spare hood as mine was cut to allow turbo to fit, a spare used radiator (don’t know the condition of it but can be tested), a spare fuel tank and the list goes on. I planned on keeping this truck for a long time. I have owned another 60 that I sold because of the rust. I never seem to find enough time to tackle fixing the rust on these trucks. This one got the best of me with regards to time and energy and money spent of getting it right. I unfortunately ran out of time and patience, and I can honestly not deal with tearing into it again to fix the rust issues. I think anyone with a good welder and some time on their hands can bring this baby up to par. The reason I am selling it is because I want to find and buy myself a truck that is completely rust free! I want to just get in and drive. I will spend the extra dollars on a mint truck; I just don’t have any free time on my hands anymore.

Now, I hope I have covered everything but if there are questions, please ask them before the auction is over.

I am selling this truck at a loss and whoever ends up buying it, they are getting a great deal!

The truck can be driven anywhere in the country form my place, or I can pick you up from an airport or something, unless you are a local. I have just serviced the truck with brand new filters and it’s good to go. Just bring plates and insurance with you. I have a clean NY title in hand and you will have no problem registering this truck anywhere in the country. Make sure you do some research with regards to imported diesel vehicles and emissions in your state.

Go to Youtube and paste this in the search bar. The video will show up.

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PLEASE REMEMBER, DO NOT BID TO COME LOOK. COME LOOK BEFORE YOU BID. THIS WILL BE A NO RESERVE AUCTION BUT IT WILL START AT A PRICE I THINK IS FAIR. IF YOU BID ON THE TRUCK, YOU ARE ENTERING A BINDING CONTRACT. IF YOU WIN THE AUCTION, PLEASE MAKE ARRANGEMENTS AND COME GET THE TRUCK, OR HAVE A CARRIER MEET ME TO PICK IT UP WITHIN A WEEK OF AUCTION’S END. WILL NOT RELEASE TITLE UNTIL I GET FULL PAYMENT.

Good luck, thanks for looking and happy bidding!