1992 Ford Mustang LX Coupe 5.0 5spd Notch Kenne Bell S/C

Description

Engine/Drivetrain Stock block, refreshed 4k miles ago, rings, bearings, seals, gaskets. GT40X head, x cam, 1.6RR ARP hardware, Kenne Belle Blowzilla/Flowzilla, 42 lb/hr injectors, 80mm ProM, 80mm TB, Anderson Powerpipe, spec stage 2 clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable clutch cable/quadrant. 3.08 Gears optima battery Suspension Koni struts, shocks, SVE B Springs, MM Full length Weld in SBC, all new HD Moog ball joints, tie rod ends, links, bushings. New PS rack (MM camber plates in box) Wheels/Brakes 93 cobra Master, MM 3-2 Conversion, 95 calipers and spindles, New Timken hubs/bearings, MM stainless braided lines, slotted rotors, MM E-brake Cables. MM stainless brake lines from splitter at axle. (new 93 Cobra booster in box) 17x9/17x10 SVE Saleen Wheels, silver with machined lip, 245/45/17 MT Street Tires (F) 275/40/17 Nitto 555R (R) Second Set 275/40/17 MT Street Tires (R) Outside/Inside New paint, all new window trim, seals, weatherstrip. New headlights, bulbs, sockets. Hydraulic hood props, and new hood seal. New door handles, window cranks, new window guide bushings, Corbeau seats, new headliner and visors. Clean/complete interior. 5 lug spare and jack. There are a ton of parts that I am forgetting. All receipts will be provided to the seller along with 1000 photos documenting all that was done. Car is for sale locally so I hold the right to cancel the auction early. Interior/exterior on the car is a 9/10. There is no rust, and the body is extremely solid. Car has not been wrecked and could very easily be turned back to stock. A/C has been removed, but evaporator coil and all connectors are there. This is a factory AC car, and it has the AC bracket for the Kenne Bell, so it could be easily added. Have 5 pulleys for the Kenne Bell 6, 8, 10, 11 and 12 PSI. Car was tuned by Mike Post of DynoTuneMP and put down 425RWHP and 430RWTq on 93 Octane. Trades considered on a 2011+ 5.0 M6 GT (plus cash on my side) Feel free to contact me with any questions tweak302@gmail.com The story - I picked up the car in April 2015, and it was a bit of a disaster. It was a clean coupe, but the interior was apart, the motor didn’t run right, it was mostly in boxes, and needed a lot of TLC. The body was very clean and solid and I’ve always wanted a coupe. So I decided to scoop it up, turn it into a stock DD fox to fart around in on nice days, but as all of us fox guys/gals know…..that only lasts a few hours. Before I even got a chance to do anything with the car, I made a few calls, sifted through the craigslist, corral and ebay ads, and had a few starting components ready. In April, my friends and I pulled the motor and trans, stripped everything down to the bear block and cleaned it up. The stock motor was honed, all bearings and rings were replaced with clevite and federal mogul parts in standard size. The motor was put together with a ford motorsport gasket kit, new pushrods, high volume oil pump. Brand new GT40X heads that had some light exhaust port work done, beehive springs, and a cobra intake manifold. Everything was ready to go in except I dropped the brand new LUK clutch cracking a part of the friction disc. At this point I decided to order a SPEC stage 2, and hold off on installing the motor in the car for another couple of days. With the motor out, I changed the steering rack, cleaned the engine bay, and started to clean up the floor of the car. With the exhaust, motor and trans out, and getting all of the debris of the floor, I found one rust spot under the driver’s pedals. Everything was cleaned to bare metal, new sheet metal was welded in, sealed in epoxy, painted in rust proofer and then rubber undercoated the entire floor of the car. Since I had the carpet out, I decided to clean the entire floorboard inside of the car as well, strip out all factory deadening, and start from scratch. After a thorough cleaning, the floor was spray undercoated, and covered with 80mil sound deadening. Since I can’t finish one project without starting another, I washed the carped, got rid of the factory mass/deadening since it was no longer needed, ran new speaker cable to the rear. I also pulled the nasty headliner, applied the sound deadening to the ceiling, and installed brand new abs backed headliner and visors from LMR. While I had most of the interior out, I changed out the leaky heater core, and started to ponder the next project. At this point the motor was in, and the car was drivable, but it was not running right. It seemed like it was ok with 19lb injectors/maf, slightly worse with 24lb injectors/maf, and spraying unburned fuel out of the exhaust with the 30’s. After hours….days…weeks of troubleshooting the problem was finally resolved with a new ECU. Some resistors were burned up, causing the pulse width to be doubled…or tripled. But during the hunt for a fix I replaced coolant temp sensors, IAC, tps, FPR, fuel pump(255 in-tank), filter, distributor module, and a few other things. With the new ECU, the car was running like a champ and was a blast to drive….but not stop and turn. The car has Mac 1¾ Long tubes, BBK x pipe, and Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back. This started the next phase of the project, 5 lug upgrade done RIGHT, with a proper 4 wheel disc conversion. Most everything was purchased from MM and North Racecars. I installed a MM 3-2 conversion, and a FRPP adjustable prop valve and a 93 cobra master. I’m running 95gt Front brake calipers with 95 GT spindles up front, brand new Timken Hubs, Bosch pads and slotted rotors, Stainless steel braided hoses. The rear has STRANGE 5 lug axles that retain Fox track width, 95gt brakes, slotted rotors, stainless braided lines, and MM FOX 4wheel disc parking brake cables. Car has brand new Koni Orange shocks all the way around, and SVE B Springs, which lower the car about 1.25” all the way around. The front was fully refurbished with all new ball joints, tie rod ends, links, etc, and rack eliminators were installed to stop any rubbing. The end result is a car that actually handles pretty well, and stops great. I do have a MM camber kit and a 93 cobra boosted brand new in a box that will come with the car unless I decide to install them first. (if I get the time) The car has 17x9 SVE Saleen wheels with 245/45/17 MT street tires, and 17x10 rears with 275/40/17 Nitto 555R DR’s. I have a second set of rears with matching 275/40/17 MT street tires – brand new. Drew from DM performance welded in MM sub-frame connectors. So with the car now stopping and turning like it should, I came across the holy grail of fox body performance parts. A Kenne Bell Blowzilla with Flowzilla manifold. This was a used kit, that was rebuilt by Kenne Bell, but never reinstalled. So I dropped everything, and went to make a deal. Since they stopped making the kits in early 2015, they have been rising in price, and the fox kit has become somewhat of a hot commodity. I know that Vortec and Paxton can provide more power and boost, but there is just something different about a twin screw on 5.0. The rebuild of the KB was documented with receipts, and along with it came 5 pulleys, original wrench, 42lb injectors, pro-M 80mm fender mount mass air, Anderson powerpipe, 80mm polished throttle body and polished bypass. The KB is also polished, and is in excellent and mechanical shape. After I got the parts on the car, it was off to see Mike Post who did the tuning. The car put down 425HP and 430Tq on 9, and is extremely streetable and is tuned very safely. The car still runs a mechanical fan, with a new 3 core radiator, and new clutch and HD water pump. No overheating issues, and the car drives excellent with the recent 85*-95* heat. The car was tuned in Sept 2014, and nothing has changed with the set up. I have taken the car to the track once and managed a 12.002 with severe traction issues, and a 1.8-1.9 60" time. The car was trapping 118-119 mph, so with a little practice it should be good for mid 11s Since then, I had the car re-sprayed with the factory emerald green metallic. It is not a show car re-spray, because with my OCD I would not be able to pull it out from under the cover, but it is a very nice paint job, and it shows extremely well. I also had the paint guy roll the rear fenders and strip/primer/sand all of the black trim around the quarter, front and rear windows. All other trim and weather stripping pieces were replaced with pieces from LMR. All new door seals, run channels, inside/outside belt moldings etc. I also replaced the hood seal, installed hood lift supports, and new headlights. I also came across some Corbeau seats on CMC that I refinished and installed on correct fox tracks. There are probably hundreds of things that i am forgetting, and I will add later, and a full “shopping list” will be available when/if the car is seen – face to face. Per Mike Posts advice, I started on a snow performance meth injection kit. I have the tank and pump installed, and most of the wiring and tubing ran, but with a little one at home, I just do not have the time to finish the install. I think with that project finished up, the camber plates and the bigger booster, the car would be a little more streetable, but it is an absolute blast to drive. The car has 3.08 gears in it, and does not need any lower of a ratio.

On Aug-15-16 at 09:47:54 PDT, seller added the following information:

Things I had remembered:

3 weeks ago replaced all of the door hinge pins/bushings to eliminate door slop, both sides.

All lights work, dome/map, no issues with the cluster, speedo is not bouncy, all gauges work.

On Aug-16-16 at 17:31:35 PDT, seller added the following information:

https://youtu.be/TRU4bjoQXk4Quick walk around the car

On Aug-16-16 at 17:55:17 PDT, seller added the following information:

https://youtu.be/TRU4bjoQXk4

On Aug-16-16 at 23:43:03 PDT, seller added the following information:

That video was shot tuesday pm, the tank is for the water/alcohol. I got the tank and pump installed in the trunk, power ran from the control box (behind radio) to the pump i also have the feed tube ran to the intake pipe/injector. Just need to tie in the vacuum/boost for the controller and install the led indicators for system on (green) and water level (red). Unless buyer does not want the system, i can most definitely remove it. This is the upgraded system, with a secondary solonoid, and 2.5 gal tank with float switch for level.